Here you go ... this will take a lot of photos to try and explain how it is built.
The roller is wide enough to accept a 36 inch wide piece of sheet metal.
The rollers are made out of 2-1/2 inch diameter steel tube with 1/2 inch wall thickness.
I turned steel bushings to fit in the ends of the rollers. These bushings were then pressed into the ends of the rollers.
A 3/4 inch diameter rod was then pushed thru the rollers and welded to the steel bushings on the gear end.
First, overall photos of the roller.
( front )
( right end, with the operating crank )
( rear )
( left end )
The round silver handle on the lower right, controls the movement of the back roller in and out.
The knob on the far left, moves that end of the back roller in and out independently so you can roll a cone shape.
The lever down in the center, moves the top roller up and down for griping the sheet metal ( the top roller is in the down position now ).
This is the rear showing the arm on the left side for the back roller and the linkage for adjusting this side for making a cone shape.
This is showing the arm on the right side for the back roller.
This also shows the brackets and linkage for the center lever that operates the top roller.
This linkage rotates a shaft that runs across the rear to move levers on both ends for the top roller.
This is the handle for the back roller.
It rotates a shaft that runs across the front to move the arms on both ends of the back roller ( the back roller is in the open position here ).
Here the back roller is in the closed position.
Here are two views of the adjuster for the left end of the back roller.
This lever and adjuster rotates with the lever on the right side for moving the back roller evenly at what ever setting this adjuster is set at.
This is two views of the lever for the top roller.
First in the open position and then in the closed position.
The lever goes "over center" just a little to hold the top roller closed.
Left end, showing both the back roller and the top roller in the open position.
There are springs on the levers for the top roller that hold the top roller up when it is open.
There are adjusting nuts on the control rods on both ends to tighten or loosen the top roller for gripping different thickness of sheet metal.
Showing the top roller closed and the back roller still open.
Both the top roller and the back roller are closed.
The bracket holding the bearing for the top roller is split into two sections on this side.
There is a "thumb screw" on the front of the top half of this bracket. This unscrews so the top of this bracket can be lifted up.
This allows this end of the top roller to be lifted up off the bearing bracket.
If you roll a piece of metal completely around the roller, then this is how you get it off the machine.
View from the front with the top roller held up with a block of wood.
Right end showing the chain and gears to operate the top and bottom rollers.
The gear on the left is on the pivot pin for the top roller. The crank handle connects to this gear.
The chain from this gear goes to the top roller.
This gear is meshed with the gear on the bottom roller at all times.
when you turn the crank, it rotates the top roller thru the chain and rotates the bottom roller in the opposite direction to grip the sheet metal an roll it thru.
This shows the top roller in the open position.
this shows the top roller in the closed position.
The gear on the bottom roller has a cover made out of the end of a tin can.
The cover for the gear and chain for the top roller is attached to the top roller bracket and moves up and down with it.
Here is the front of the cover.
There are two adjusting screws on the right legs that screw down to the floor to hold the roller in place.
When I first built this, it was made to accept a piece of sheet metal that was 6 foot wide.
Even with these rollers being 1/2 inch thick, the force needed to roll a 6 foot section was so great that the rollers would flex in the center.
So I cut it down to 3 foot and it works great.
This is shows the joints from shortening the roller frame.
I just cut the rollers in half to shorted them.
The roller is wide enough to accept a 36 inch wide piece of sheet metal.
The rollers are made out of 2-1/2 inch diameter steel tube with 1/2 inch wall thickness.
I turned steel bushings to fit in the ends of the rollers. These bushings were then pressed into the ends of the rollers.
A 3/4 inch diameter rod was then pushed thru the rollers and welded to the steel bushings on the gear end.
First, overall photos of the roller.
( front )
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( right end, with the operating crank )
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( rear )
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( left end )
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The round silver handle on the lower right, controls the movement of the back roller in and out.
The knob on the far left, moves that end of the back roller in and out independently so you can roll a cone shape.
The lever down in the center, moves the top roller up and down for griping the sheet metal ( the top roller is in the down position now ).
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This is the rear showing the arm on the left side for the back roller and the linkage for adjusting this side for making a cone shape.
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This is showing the arm on the right side for the back roller.
This also shows the brackets and linkage for the center lever that operates the top roller.
This linkage rotates a shaft that runs across the rear to move levers on both ends for the top roller.
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This is the handle for the back roller.
It rotates a shaft that runs across the front to move the arms on both ends of the back roller ( the back roller is in the open position here ).
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Here the back roller is in the closed position.
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Here are two views of the adjuster for the left end of the back roller.
This lever and adjuster rotates with the lever on the right side for moving the back roller evenly at what ever setting this adjuster is set at.
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This is two views of the lever for the top roller.
First in the open position and then in the closed position.
The lever goes "over center" just a little to hold the top roller closed.
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Left end, showing both the back roller and the top roller in the open position.
There are springs on the levers for the top roller that hold the top roller up when it is open.
There are adjusting nuts on the control rods on both ends to tighten or loosen the top roller for gripping different thickness of sheet metal.
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Showing the top roller closed and the back roller still open.
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Both the top roller and the back roller are closed.
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The bracket holding the bearing for the top roller is split into two sections on this side.
There is a "thumb screw" on the front of the top half of this bracket. This unscrews so the top of this bracket can be lifted up.
This allows this end of the top roller to be lifted up off the bearing bracket.
If you roll a piece of metal completely around the roller, then this is how you get it off the machine.
| Report this image |
View from the front with the top roller held up with a block of wood.
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Right end showing the chain and gears to operate the top and bottom rollers.
The gear on the left is on the pivot pin for the top roller. The crank handle connects to this gear.
The chain from this gear goes to the top roller.
This gear is meshed with the gear on the bottom roller at all times.
when you turn the crank, it rotates the top roller thru the chain and rotates the bottom roller in the opposite direction to grip the sheet metal an roll it thru.
This shows the top roller in the open position.
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this shows the top roller in the closed position.
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The gear on the bottom roller has a cover made out of the end of a tin can.
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The cover for the gear and chain for the top roller is attached to the top roller bracket and moves up and down with it.
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Here is the front of the cover.
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There are two adjusting screws on the right legs that screw down to the floor to hold the roller in place.
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When I first built this, it was made to accept a piece of sheet metal that was 6 foot wide.
Even with these rollers being 1/2 inch thick, the force needed to roll a 6 foot section was so great that the rollers would flex in the center.
So I cut it down to 3 foot and it works great.
This is shows the joints from shortening the roller frame.
I just cut the rollers in half to shorted them.
| Report this image |
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